July 9th

Today we awaken early for our drive to Shandar. The mountains here are spectacular – rugged and tall, surrounding us on every side. The “Long” river moves along with us, curving and winding its way ahead of us as though to tell us the way.

We stop at the temple of Wengchen Princess, the Chinese princes who married a Tibetan king. She taught the Tibetan culture about Chinese medicine and how to make a home. She also was instrumental in bringing vegetables to Tibet. The story goes that, if not for her, there would have been a great war. This sacred place is amassed with prayer flags and offerings to her. Tashi tells us that on the mountainside near the temple is a small hole. If you can find this hole, you put your finger in it 3 times and it proves that you are a good son or daughter. Tashi says that some people can never find the hole, and are ridiculed for being a bad child. He took his wife to this place on their first date and, of course, they both found the hole and felt very blessed.

There is a blind, hunched over woman walking down the middle of the street with her cane. Tashi walks up to her and tells her she should move to the side of the road. “I am looking for the mani stone. I can’t find the mani stone”, she says. She is desperate and sad. Tashi tells her that the mani stone is in her heart.

Did I tell you how much I love Tashi?

Shandar is a dusty town filled with motorcycles and scooters (purchased with the money from the sale of their horses) everywhere that weave in and out of people walking. It is some kind of ordered chaos that is made up of pigs and dogs and laughter and popsicles and so many men standing around in their fancy jackets in the dusty heat.

Rinpoche’s home is close – and lovely. A large old silver gate opens to a graceful and colorful home, which is only reached by walking through the front yard that harbors another two barking dogs (there seems to be a theme here). We are taken to a large kitchen with colorful tiled floors, a ceiling of cloth patterned with large dorjes, and furniture etched with a multitude of Tibetan colors. More salty tea! The outhouse boards that surround the small rectangular hole seem very wobbly and Jeffrey and I have a momentary thought about what it would be like to fall to the ground. Yikes!!!

We begin our long search for directions to Dechenling, but first we much check in at the police station – for protection. Fortunately, Rinpoche’s sister is a police person!

Dechingling. This place seems that it is telling me, “This is not the right time to come”. Rinpoche thought the road had been paved, but alas, we are told that it is either horses or motorcycles. We are told that the road is very bad due to the rains and now, 30 minutes later, the only option becomes motorcycles. God, sometimes this is so hard! We are hot, have not showered in days, and have been met with challenge after challenge. Pigs and goats and too many dogs to mention seem to mirror my confusion as they aimlessly walk in circles. Most of the time all the blessings far out way these things, but right now I am worried that all of this is for naught. How to get to this place?

Then dear Jeffrey has an idea. Let’s go the Gebchek first. Suddenly is seems so obvious! If it is so hard to get to Dechenling, it will be too hard for Tashi to deliver and pick up the malas, of course! We call Rinpoche’s sister. She will find the way to Gebchek. Meanwhile, she will take us to a local nunnery. Back in the jeep. Up the mountain we climb until we reach a beautiful monastery perched high up in the hillside. The pure, round and smiling faces of these nuns are a peaceful pleasure as they come to greet us and we enter the cool, dark building. Shoes off, pink rubber slippers on, and up the stairs we go toward the echoing of prayers and drums coming from above. The Nuns sit in long lines chanting and praying in harmony. Three nuns drum on large round drums and a single Nun walks back and forth to the window to toss out the oil from the butter lamp. We are given permission to film and they continue, without pause.

Outside again, some of the nuns gather around, looking at the viewer on the video camera, which brings great delight. I give an offering and, in return, receive a small package of blessings. It is herbs that, when not feeling well, you burn and inhale. With our hearts filled to overflowing, we say godinche (thank you) and ga show (good-bye). I have no idea how to spell these words.

At dinner later in the day, Tashi’s best friend from elementary school meets us and knows the way to Gebchek. He works for the government and has been there many times. It will be a long and hard drive on a road that is too dangerous if it rains. Our driver, Mr. Jain begins backing out, worried about his car. There is no map, no road signs and he is worried, as is Tashi, that we will be very lost or worse, that it will rain on our way up.

Tashi’s friend, Nema, will try to get the rest of the week off. We come back to Rinpoche’s home and prepare for bed. I pray for clear skies.