July 3 – Taer Monetary

The rain and thunder left us a gift of extra shinny golden rooftops this morning that glisten in the gentle sunlight. It is perfectly quiet and peaceful here - being held in this container of crimson robes and secret prayers. Monks on bicycles ride by and there is that strange 3-wheel car again. I keep wondering about the building damage here. Jeffrey said there was an earthquake back in 1984 or so, but I keep wondering what it was like in the spiritual quake of the 1960;s. A 20 something sweet monk was following Jeffrey around in the grocery store last night, teasing him, punching him in the ribs, affectionately putting his arm around him. I wondered if he’s lost his father long ago and gravitated toward Jeffrey’s large and gentle nature – or those very unusual blue eyes standing out amidst all of us dark eyes.

Goji berries in the grocery store - probably about 20 cents a bag. Whole Foods, $8.68 a bag. Maybe I’ll go on a Goji berry diet. These Tibetan women are so beautiful and seem to carry so much dignity. They don’t beg or have the look in their eyes – that look of desperation and hollowness I so often see in hunger. They are very poor, but they are not starving – and they are happy.

Walked through more market stalls again today. I was looking for Ginseng and tried my best to explain, but all they kept bringing to me were large bags of dried herbs. About 7 of us – all laughing together in one of the small stalls, trying to understand. Suddenly, a smiling man runs into our little stall, which is becoming quite crowed, with a can the size of a coke can. Liquid Ginseng! “So Big” I said. I gestured to everyone – “Let’s get some cups and we can all drink”. (The Tibetans somehow understand sign language much better than the Chinese). The woman behind the counter quickly produced about 10 paper cups, someone else poured, Jeffrey filmed, and we all toasted “Tashi Delek”. “We are friends now”, the owner conveyed, and dropped his price of turquoise by 100 Yuen.

Off to Xining to meet dear Jamin.

We’re back in our little car. There is the driver, another cute Tibetan man who adores Jeffrey, and the two of us. Xining is dusty and busy. Crossing the street is a major event – it’s as though the cars dare you to get in front of them. You stand in the middle of the street with cars going past you on both side, weaving in and out of each other at break neck speed. Jeffrey and I find ourselves in numerous converstions about whether we really need to get to that store/ restaurant etc, if it means crossing the street.

We have tea with Jamin, meet our translator Tashi and will finalize plans tomorrow. Jamin, who set up our transportation and translator after months of e-mail correspondance, has skillfully handed us off.

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Oh, my heart is just about to explode!

Shortly thereafter, we got our very awaited phone call from Rinpoche. Next thing we knew, we were all sitting around a table having tea together in the little room next to a hotel he’d previously lived in for three years. He is a dear. We are planning out our schedule to go to both Gebchak and Dechenling. OK, ready for an auspicious coincidence? Upon meeting Rinpoche, Tashi realized that his father and Rinpoche’s father were best friends (Tashi’s father died a few years ago) and he and Rinpoche had met several times over the years!

Tashi is so wonderful. He clearly adored his father and couldn’t wait to call his mother in Yushu, a town where we will be spending a few nights while, believe it or not, his sister and her friend make the malas! After that, we will head toward Dechenling via Nangchen, where we will stay with Rinpoche’s sister and his esteemed father, Lama Sazha. In Dechenling, about 7 hours from Nangchen town, we will take the last hour on horseback, which Rinpoche is arranging for us. From there we will go to Gabchek.

Rnpoche insists that we move into Xining because there is much business to be done in the next few days. We take the elevator up to the 14th floor and take a look at the rather unappealing rooms. Oh well, at least we have a couple of days of respite in Kumbum

We have yet to receive our luggage or our beads which are being Fedex’d from India, but I am learning not to worry.

We will miss it here at Kumbum. We always are laughing with the staff, trying to get them to understand, and vise versa. Finally, we found a word in common – tofu! I am in heaven. Lots of tofu and veggies.

It is truly a priveledge to be on this journey. A Chinese speaker was at another table tonight and Jeffrey and I did our very best to eavesdrop. He is part of a project here called The Bridge Project for Tibetans. He spoke about how the Tibetans are between worlds, with no world of their own. He described their language as beautiful flowers, which soon may be lost.

These are the most beautiful, open, affectionate people I have ever seen. They are the embodiment of loving kindness. Tashi tells many stories that are heart breaking – old people going to hospitals where only Chinese is spoken and having no way to communicate.


Tomorrow we move to Xining.