July 6 th—Lunch at Rinpoche’s home

Today we had lunch at Rinpoche’s home. Jeffrey, Tashi and I and about 5 monks and/or lamas. We ate yak meat and lots of veggies, drank wine because Rinpoche knew I liked it – the consideration and hospitality is amazing here. Tomorrow, we will take Lama Chuying with us to Yushu. I am learning that everything that happens seems to have some purpose. Jamin tried to get us a 4th person to cut down on costs, yet what could be more auspicious than starting our journey with this wonderful, openhearted Lama!

Jeffrey and I have strangely found ourselves starting sentences with “One thing that I like about Xining . . . . .” We love the people. There is always a very ready smile and laugh with my incessant sign language. They are also extremely honest. The streets and alleys are alive with people selling chickens, dogs, cheap trinkets – they sell anything, but there is not one person begging. They seem fascinated with Americans and we laugh that this must be what it’s like to be a celebrity.

We had our best meal tonight. About 5 staff standing around us. The owner or manager walked past the tables with me while I pointed to things we wanted to eat – the entire restaurant enjoys it and everyone tries to help. Thank God for my family evenings of playing charades! We had Hot Pots – a delicious broth that, upon boiling, you put in lettuce, meat, shrimp, and mushrooms – anything you want. Then you eat the cooked food - so good! You spoon out the broth, add cilantro and onion and have the best soup you’ve ever had! Ice-cold beer tops it all off! Our food angel literally stood at our table taking us from bite to bite – Jeffrey laughs that she practically fed us!

The next morning we have tsambas, the yak butter and flour balls we had in the Nepalese nightclub. His brother shows us how to mix up the butter and flour in our individual bowls, scooping it all around in circles until we make a nice rounded ball. They are delicious! This time the salty tea has milk in it – an improvement!

We spend the day teaching Tashi’s wife, cousin and another women how to make the malas. They are better at it then I am! It is a fun and relaxed day in their backyard and, as usual, they are delightful! At lunchtime we went into town for lunch and went shopping. The men dress in nice pants and jackets – we never see blue jeans on anyone but Tashi. Many of the women are in traditional Tibetan dress – lovely long black dresses, colorful sashes and large coral and turquoise jewelry. We take pictures of them and they love to see themselves on the camera – they are truly beautiful women who adorn themselves with care – no matter how poor.

Today we woke up early for our drive to Shandar. The mountains here are spectacular – rugged and tall, surrounding us on every side. The “Long” river moves along with us, curving and winding its way along the road.

We stop at the temple of Wengchen Princess, Chinese princes who married a Tibetan king. She taught the Tibetan culture about Chinese medicine and how to make a home. She also was instrumental in bringing vegetables to Tibet. The story goes that, if not for her, there would have been a great war. The place is amass with prayer flags and offering to her and one the mountain side near the temple is a small hole. If you can find the hole, you put your finger in it 3 times and it proves that you are a good son or daughter. Tashi says that some people can never find the hole, and are ridiculed for being a bad child. He took his wife to this place on their first date and, of course, they both found the hold and felt very blessed.

Shandar is a dusty town filled with motorcycles everywhere that weave in and out of people walking. It is some kind of ordered chaos that surrounds us somewhat like a suffocating glove. Pigs and dogs and laughter and popsicles and so many men standing around in their fancy jackets in the dusty heat.

Rinpoche’s home is close – and lovely. A large old silver gate opens to a graceful and colorful home, which is only reached by passing another two barking dogs (there seems a theme here). We are taken to a large kitchen with colorful tiled floors, a ceiling of cloth patterned with large dorjes and furniture etched with a multitude of colors. More salty tea! We begin then the long search for directions to Dechenling, but first we much check in at the police station – for protection. Fortunately, Rinpoche’s sister is a police person!

Dechinling. This place seems that it is telling me that this is not the right time to go here. Rinpoche thought the road had been paved, but alas, we are told that it is either horses or scooters. We are told that the road is very dangerous and now, 30 minutes later, the only option is scooters. God, sometimes this is so hard! We are hot, have not showered in days, have been met with challenge after challenge. Most of the time all the blessings far out way these things, but right now I am worried that all of this is for naught. How to get to this place? Then dear Jeffrey has an idea. Let’s go the Gebchek first. Suddenly is seems obvious! If it is so hard to get to Dechenling, it will be too hard for Tashi to deliver and pick up the malas, of course! We call Rinpoche’s sister. She will find the way and now take us to a local nunnery. Back in the jeep – she comes with us. Up the mountain we climb until we reach a beautiful monastery up in the hillside. The pure, round and smiling faces of thee nuns comes to greet us and we enter the cool, dark building. Shoes off, pink rubber slipper on, and up the stairs we go toward the calling of prayers and drums coming from above. The Nuns sit in long lines chanting and praying in harmony. Three nuns drum on large round drums and a single Nun walks back and forth to the window to toss out the oil from the butter lamp. We are given permission to film and they continue, without pause.

Outside, some of the nuns gather around, looking at the viewer on the video camera, which brings great delight. I give an offering and, in return, receive a small package of blessings. With our hearts filled to overflowing, we say godinche and ga show (I have no idea how to spell these words).

At dinner, Tashi’s friend meets us and knows the way to Gebchek. It will be a long and hard drive on a road that is dangerous. Our driver, Mr. Jain begins backing out, worried about his car. There is no map, no road signs and he is worried, as is Tashi, that we will be very lost.
Tashi’s friend knows the way and will try to get the rest of the week off. We come back to Rinpoche’s home and prepare for bed. The outhouse boards that surround the hold seem very wobbly and I have a momentary thought about what it would be like to fall to the ground. Yikes!!!