July 14th

Today we shopped in the Tibetan market; I bought some local yarn to make a scarf for Jeffrey as a reminder of our journey together. I purchased 18 feet of lovely black fabric with gold dorjes on it and five feet of luscious gold brocade fabric – all for about 200 Yuen – about $15 American money. What a bargain!

The world’s largest mani stone is here in Yushu, called Jana. Crowds of Tibetan people are circumambulating the very large area. We turn the prayer wheels as we walk, interrupting this meditation only to enter one of the many temple rooms within which is from one to three large prayer wheel. Old, wrinkled, stooped women seem to be stronger then I am as they push the large standing wheels into motion. I smile at them; they return the smile one hundred fold.

The local monastery is next. I take my shoes off and walk inside the prayer room filled with a hundred monks chanting and ringing the bells, trusting that someone will stop me if I’m not supposed to go in. I enter this field of ancient prayer and take my place on the floor behind six Australian women. We are the only others here. As the guys stay outside, I sit in the vibration of the deeply resonate prayers resounding within these walls. Again, I ask myself “How did I get here?” I feel so blessed and grateful.

Tonight we say our first goodbye. It is after our ‘ hot pot’ dinner, Tashi Delek! Tashi Delek! We all know it is our last time together. We laugh, I cry. Jean Su has melted our hearts with his infectious laugh and newly found openness. Nema, who we are saying goodbye to shortly, almost cries with us. He bought Jeffrey and I Om Mani Padma Hung DVD’s, which we watch from our big round table on the second floor of our restaurant. He talks about how much he prayed during the perilous drive up the mountain. On the video earlier he said he was never scared. Now, after a couple of beers, the truth comes out. He too is such a dear. We joke that we must find him a good wife to fatten him up. He is skinny as a rail with a heart as big as the sky. His friendship with Tashi is long and dear.

So here we are getting ready for bed on our last night in Yushu. Jeffrey and I are both sad to be leaving, but also looking forward to a shower and a toilet. We know that few will ever understand our journey and are grateful for each other. We will return.