Monday, July 30, 2007

July 21st—Saturday

I’m cuddled up in my Tibetan room in the middle of Barkhor Square, maybe two blocks from Jokhang Temple. Tomorrow I leave for Kathmandu.

First, I have to say that last night was pretty miserable. I arrived at Chandar around 10:30 pm with a promised person awaiting my arrival with my name in big letters. Didn’t happen! Hmm, did they write it in Chinese? I was tired, my little luggage cart was hard to steer (we’ve all had one or two of those). I ask about ten people if anyone speaks English – no one. Finally, I walk into a bookstore and Mr. Wonderful is there. Such a nice young man – he called Fiona, my travel agent in Xining. Probably woke her up. But, I’d asked her for the name of the airport hotel and she’d said “No, problem. They will be there”. Mr. Wonderful’s name is Sunny and he is awaiting his girl friend’s flight. Fiona calls back, the hotel calls Sunny, and within 10 minutes a young man is there to take me to the WOW Hotel. Wow was a huge overstatement! Anyway, it was a bed.

Early to the airport the next morning. I have a certain tension about these airports. Everything seems magnified when you are alone – and no one speaks your language. Everyone is walking that fast, self-assured pace that lets you know that they know exactly where they are going. So, I’m learning to just go up to the ticket counters until someone speaks English and directs me to the right place.

Arrived in Lhasa around 10 am this morning. Found a taxi whose Tibetan driver immediately ends up in a big fight with a female Chinese airport policewoman. Finally, we take off toward Lhasa – he is visibly shaken. I never did find out what the problem was, but she looked me straight in the eye, and then apparently told him to go ahead. I taught my new friend how to say “far”. “Far” from airport to Lhasa. The highway is lined with Chinese military police. “Many policemen”, I said. He enthusiastically agreed, “Many policemen”. Then does something with his hands to show me what I think he was saying which was – 10 policeman, 1 Tibetan. I’m pretty sure I understood correctly.

After about an hour’s drive, two wonderful people meet me on Beijing Street, take my luggage, and walk me to the Barkhor Nangchen Guest House. They certainly made up for last night’s fiasco – and so did my sweet room. They tell me I can not get into the Patella Palace since reservations need to be made one day in advance, so I should go to the Jokhang Temple for the inside and walk around the Palace for the outside.

I lay down my luggage, pick up my purse and take off. I have one day here in Lhasa and I don’t want to miss it!

Jokhang Temple

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